How to Install Hardwood on Stairs
If you are unsure about how to lay a wood floor then please contact us for our specialist advice.
Installing Hardwood on stairs requires a great deal of skill and patience, fitting flooring on a staircase isn't an easy task. But, if done correctly, can look wonderful.
However it is extremely important that flooring on a staircase is fitted correctly to ensure no accidents can be caused due to incorrect fitting.
Tools required:
Pliers, hammer, soft mallet, belt sander, level, chalk line, gloves, circular saw, jig saw, tape measure, pneumatic nailer (these can be hired), nails and silean adhesive.
1. After all the old stair covering has been removed, pull out any remaining carpet tacks.
2. Use your belt sander or chisel to clean up the treads of the existing stairs, as any material left behind will cause the stairs to creak.
3. Check the treads with a level, and sand any areas that are not level to prevent squeaking.
4. With a tape measure, measure the amount of “nosing” to be removed (nosing is the part of the tread that over hangs the riser). Measure in two or three places and transfer this measurement to the top of the tread, with a chalk line.
5. With a circular saw cut through the nosing (if you have measured this right, the cut edge will be in line with the edge of the riser below it)
6. When the circular saw reaches a point where it cannot go any further, change to a jig saw and cut through to each end. Discard the offcut. Do this on each tread.
7. Cut the hardwood for the riser to the correct length (you may need to do this 3 or 4 times to ensure a tight fit. It is better to cut it oversize and trim it than to cut it too small) make sure that the boards are cut to the exact sizes as needed. Be patient, and exercise extra caution when cutting the boards. Note: bevel the edge of the bottom riser piece with an angled saw or a sander to ensure a tight fit into the bottom corner.
8. Apply adhesive to the board and put it in place, with the tongue facing up. Hammer three nails along the bottom part of the board. Put some adhesive on the next board and fix it in place above the first board. The last piece at the top will probable need cutting to fit, ensure this does not protrude above the existing tread. Tap the board so that the groove will be locked to the tongue.
9. Cut the new nosing (rounded edge moulding that is finished the same as the flooring) to the correct length. Remember that the wall or skirting may not be square to the step so measure at the front and at the back. The worst thing you can do is cut it short, cut it long and you can always go back and cut some more off. Getting this nosing to fit tight is the hardest part of the job as you cannot bevel the backside because it would be seen from underneath.
10. Fitting the boards to the treads is the same as fitting the risers except that the boards are reversed so that they engage with the nosing that has the groove facing outwards. For the steps themselves trying to avoid top nailing at all costs. Dry fit all pieces until you are happy with the appearance. The last piece at the back will probably have to be trimmed to fit. Remove all pieces laying them in order nearby so you know what order they go back. Warning! Don't fit the final row tight at the back when dry fitting. You will never be able to remove it without damage.
11. To fix the boards to the step without top nailing, use a urethane spread adhesive, and spread the glue with a notched trowel for complete coverage. In some cases it may be necessary to top nail the nosing in place, if it is not a tight fit to keep it from moving. You may have to tap the last piece of board at the back into place with a soft mallet, or a scrap piece of wood and a hammer.
12. This last piece can be top nailed at the very back so that the nail heads will be covered by the next riser piece. For the thinner 9mm boards the top nailing will be visible so you will need to fill the indents with matching filler. Note: engineered boards will not split as easily as solid wood boards.
13. Always start at the top of the stairs, completing each step one at a time, working downwards, riser first, then tread and so on
Once completed you will have a beautiful staircase that will look good and last for years, and the effort will have been well worth it.
INSTALLER/OWNER RESPONSIBILITY
Make sure there is no damage to any the flooring before you install it, as it cannot be returned as faulty once fitted for any damage after installation.
You should also ensure that your subfloor is structurally sound. ALL warranties are affected by damage caused to the flooring by an incorrectly prepared subfloor, incorrect fitting, or the use of unsuitable materials, either before during or after the fitting, cleaning and maintenance of the product.
We strongly advise you to read the manufacturer’s installation guides before installing any wood flooring.
If you are unsure about how to lay a wood floor then please contact us for our specialist advice.